George Baguma
30 Sep
30Sep

I left Kigali on Friday before sunrise. As usual, the early departure enabled me to participate in a wide range of activities while leaving ample time for a much-needed rest. This time around, my mode of transport was a motorbike.        

The ride to Rubavu was simply exhilarating. As the saying goes, driving a car is like watching a movie, while riding a motorbike feels like starring in that movie. Traveling on two wheels made the journey as captivating as the destination. Rwanda is a biking paradise. Spinning my spokes on the scenic, meandering roads snaking through a grandeur of hills was a thrilling experience.

When I made it to Rubavu, I headed to the city’s bustling commercial streets and did a bit of window shopping. Then I passed by the market and bought fresh fruits. While in the market, I interacted with members of the local community and felt at home.      

After a brief stopover at the market, I went to the border post, commonly referred to as Petite Barrière. Baring unpredictable circumstances caused by the volatility of the eastern part of the DRC, this is one of the busiest frontiers in the world. The land border mainly serves local traders from both sides of the boundary line. A short distance from Petite Barrière stands the imposing, modern Grande Barrière. At a glance, the latter looks like an airport terminal.     

Later on, I headed to the public beach and captured the spirit of the people of Rubavu. It was still early, but beachgoers had started flocking the strip, creating a festive atmosphere. 

After a short break at the public beach, I proceeded to Saga Bay. Upon arrival, I took off my boots and slipped my feet into a pair of flip-flops. Then I placed my lunch order and took it easy. Later in the evening, I twisted my throttle to my favorite weekend getaway sanctuary: Palm Garden Resort.

Although Rubavu is known for its vibrant nightlife, partying wasn’t part of my itinerary. On the contrary, I needed a good night’s sleep in a serene environment. Resting at night was a priority. That explains why I opted to stay at Palm Garden Resort. The tranquility and peace of mind experienced at the said resort are seldom found elsewhere.        

As I twisted my throttle towards Nyamyumba Beach, I was awestruck by the beauty of the lake and the backdrop of the surrounding hills. That was a sight to behold.  Each turn revealed a stunning vista. The gentle waves of the lake, the islets that look like floating gardens, and the rolling hills heightened the sense of exploration. Furthermore, the curves of the road kept me alert, engaged, and connected to the machine I was operating. The ride to Nyamyumba was nothing short of spectacular.

The ride to Nyamyumba was nothing short of spectacular

Palm Garden Resort has 14 rooms, one apartment, and several fully equipped camping tents. The camping ground is within the premises of the resort. The three options cater to guests with different preferences and budgets. There is something for everyone.  From loaded tourists to backpackers traveling on a budget, Palm Garden Resort has made it possible for all to benefit from its commendable services.       

I love camping, but I opted for the warmth of a cozy bedroom. As mentioned earlier, the assurance of a good night’s sleep contributed to the choice of this resort. Prior to leaving Kigali, I had slept for only three hours. To make matters worse, I had spent the previous couple of nights dropping off and picking up travelers to and from the airport. It was therefore important to give my sleep-deprived self a dreamland treat during my stay in Rubavu. As I caught up with sleep, I was also getting myself re-energized for two physically taxing activities: Hiking and cycling.

On Saturday morning, I laced up my hiking boots and toiled my way to the top of Rubona Hill. The challenging, steep hill enabled me to burn a good number of calories while soaking up breathtaking views. Speaking of views, Rubona’s viewpoint is food for the soul of every hiking enthusiast. From my vantage point, I was awestruck by the beauty of downtown Rubavu and Goma’s most affluent neighborhood. I also had a blurry view of Nyiragongo, the notorious volcano known for its history of spitting fire and causing mayhem.     

On the other side of the hill, I saw Akeza, k’Abakobwa, k’Abakingi, and Iwawa islands. Amashyuza Peninsula looked like an island too. That was a sight to behold.      

I took a walk around the crest and saw lavish homes and a number of ongoing high-end housing projects. While patrolling the summit, I visited one posh residential property and wondered how the residents of the house in question drive to their home. Unbeknownst to me, there is a bumpy road through the other side of the hill.    

Rubona Hill is a hiker’s paradise. Although strenuous, the trail can be covered in about half an hour by a hiker who is in a good shape. For those who prefer a moderate challenge, the rocky track on the other side of the hill can serve them better.

Hiking Rubona Hill wasn’t the only physically taxing activity of the day. Barely an hour after the hike, I embarked on a cycling tour to and from Kivumu in the neighboring district of Rutsiro. The round trip covered about twenty kilometers.  Along the way, I learned more about the watershed that separates the drainage basins of Africa’s most iconic rivers: The Congo and The Nile. The trail spans more than 200 kilometers. It snakes along Lake Kivu’s shoreline from Rubavu to Rusizi through Rutsiro, Karongi, Nyamasheke, and Rusizi.       

It takes cyclists up to five days to cover the entire trail. However, most tourists chose segments depending on their preferences, levels of fitness, and durations of stays, among other factors. 

Barely an hour after climbing Rubona Hill, I embarked on a cycling tour along the Congo NileTrail

When I woke up on Sunday morning, my muscles were sore. Luckily, the Nyamyumba Hot Springs are found a stone’s throw away from Palm Garden Resort. In a bid to speed up the recovery process, I took a dip and stayed partially submerged in the mineral-rich water, known in Kinyarwanda as amashyuza, for about an hour. The magma-powered spa recharged my body and lifted my spirits. My natural jacuzzi experience was followed by a thorough physiotherapy session. Buried in the sand from neck to toe, I felt the thrill of the steamy amashyuza liquid penetrating the organically composed sand and nourishing my skin.

I had already checked out of Palm Garden Resort when I made a decision to go for a sightseeing boat ride around the islands mentioned above. Leaving Rubavu without sailing on the gentle waves of Lake Kivu is a cardinal sin, according to the Visit Rubavu scriptures. As the clock ticked towards my departure, I managed to squeeze in one more activity.       

There is something magical about water bodies. It is common to see people traveling long distances in pursuit of the sand, the sight of the waves, and the cool breeze. Kicking back and relaxing on the sandy beach while sipping the beverages prescribed for holidaymakers is absolutely sensational. Unfortunately, that is not enough to quench my thirst. Any activity that takes place on the shuffled waves does the trick. Boating is definitely one of them.

An adventure-filled weekend is like candy. It slowly melts in your mouth, sweetening every taste bud, and making you wish it could last forever. If wishes were horses, beggars would ride. When my time in Rubavu was up, I had no choice but to hit the road and return to Kigali. 

On my way back to Kigali, I found myself coming to terms with the fact that regular life was about to resume. As I cruised past the breathtaking Nyabihu hills, the fresh memories of my just concluded weekend getaway lingered in my mind.          

Rubavu has much more to offer than what is covered in this story. One weekend is not enough to experience what is in store. Although I had a fulfilling tour, my exploration didn’t even scratch the surface. Plans are underway to return for a more extensive tour.

When my time in Rubavu was up, I had no choice but to hit the road and return to Kigali