Sailing to Stillness: A Fitting Farewell to Musha
It’s my last day at Vox Wagen Campsite, nestled on the Musha side of Lake Muhazi. I’ve spent my time here resting and soaking in the serenity of the Muhazi Belt. Beyond the much-needed rest, I ventured out on a scenic lakeside ride from Musha to Duha, a trail that revealed breathtaking views at every turn. In addition, I have witnessed firsthand the transformation of this area into a vibrant tourism hotspot.
My stay has been pure bliss. But before I leave Musha, there’s one more adventure calling — a boat ride across the sparkling waters of Lake Muhazi. As I board the boat, beaming with excitement, I invite you to join me. Welcome aboard!
After setting sail, I kick back, relax, and surrender to the elements. Our sleek vessel glides effortlessly across the gentle ripples of the lake. The cool breeze blows by, carrying with it the scent of fresh water and blossoming lakeside flora. The soft hum of the engine blends harmoniously with the natural symphony of birdsong and the whisper of the wind.
As we set sail, I kick back, relax, and surrender to the elements. Our sleek vessel glides effortlessly across the gentle ripples of the lake.
Sitting on a comfortable cushion, I gaze out at the changing landscape. On both banks of the narrow lake, luxury lodges, grand vacation homes, and stately retirement villas rise like jewels among the greenery. Their terracotta roofs, sweeping balconies, and manicured gardens reflect the growing allure of this paradise. It’s fascinating to see how this once-sleepy stretch of lakeshore is turning into a holiday strip, without losing the laid-back charm that makes Muhazi so magnetic.
The further we sail, the more it feels like moving through a secret world — a hidden passage where nature reigns supreme. Every bend in the lake reveals a new portrait: gentle hills rising in the distance, patches of farmland quilted into the earth, and pockets of lush forest whispering stories of the land’s hidden treasure. Here, between the embrace of water and wilderness, I find myself reconnected to the simple, profound wonder of the natural world.
Amid the lush scenery, a different kind of spectacle unfolds. The sight of fenced-off plots of land, each proudly staking its claim along the lakeshore. Some of these bare stretches are already earmarked for grand future projects: lavish resorts, promising indulgent escapes, and palatial retirement homes dreaming of peaceful golden years. For now, though, it's mostly a patchwork of fences — some sturdy and elaborate, others looking hastily assembled, as if their owners raced to "mark their territories" before the next big rush. It's amusing to imagine the quiet battles of ambition playing out here, invisible yet unmistakable.
On both banks of the narrow lake, luxury lodges, grand vacation homes, and stately retirement villas rise like jewels among the greenery.
The calming effect is profound. Breathing in the cool evening air, I feel a quiet gratitude swelling inside me — for the beauty, for the moment, and for the simple, timeless magic of Lake Muhazi at sunset.
As the golden light of the sunset begins to fade, it is time to sail back to Vox Wagen. Just as we are preparing to head off, the children playing on the opposite shore call us — their voices carrying across the still water, loud enough to hear but full of humility. They have a simple, heartfelt request: they are asking if, by any chance, we have a ball to spare. A soccer ball — the best gift a child in Africa could ever hope to receive.
As fate would have it — or perhaps because some things are just meant to be, my host remembers that there is a ball back at the camp. Without a second thought, we set our course for Vox Wagen, hearts light and spirits lifted by the mission we have unexpectedly embarked on. We fetch the ball, a simple but powerful token of joy, and sail back across the lake, traversing from the Gatsibo side to the Rwamagana side, back and forth across the shimmering water. What we are delivering isn't just a ball — it is a promise of laughter, of games yet to be played, and of memories that will linger long after the sun goes down.
What follows is nothing short of a sunset spectacle. As the sun begins its slow descent behind the distant hills, the sky transforms into a masterpiece of glowing colors — warm golds melting into fiery oranges, with streaks of crimson and rose stretching across the horizon.