Flying Flags: A Pan-African Quest to Explore Africa on a Motorcycle
It's a beautiful day here at Vox Wagen Campsite, nestled on the bank of Lake Muhazi. Soaking up the breathtaking scenery, I am mesmerized by the gentle waves rippling across the surface of the lake. As the cool breeze sweeps through the campsite, branches of trees surrounding us sway back and forth, producing a whistling sound.
I lean back and relax on the deck of our host's boat before opening my notebook in anticipation of a fascinating story. The storyteller seated next to me is currently touring 30 African countries on a motorcycle. His full name is Daitey Saviour Tulasi Humphreyson. So far, the Ghanaian national is sojourning in his 26th destination.
When Daitey embarked on this epic adventure, he wasn't planning to come this far. Initially, he considered riding from Ghana to South Africa and flying back home. Had this itinerary been observed, he would have donated his Honda Africa Twin before booking a flight back to Accra.
Daitey Saviour Tulasi Humphreyson (left) with the author on their way to Lake Muhazi in the Eastern Province of Rwanda.
As the tour picked up steam and his 650-cc Japanese machine piled up mileage, his ambition was stretched like the road in front of him. Eventually, the one-way ride turned into an extraordinary odyssey around Africa.
Prior to flagging off the journey to East Africa through Central and Southern Africa, Daitey twisted his throttle across ten West African countries. His expedition began in Ghana before leading him through Ivory Coast, Liberia, Sierra Leone, and Guinea. From there, he proceeded to Guinea-Bissau, Senegal, Gambia, Mali, and Burkina Faso.
Touring ten countries on a motorcycle seems like a daunting challenge. For Daitey, his West African leg was merely a warm-up. However, his determination was tested when an engine 'knock' incident threatened to kill his dream. In a bid to salvage the tour, he made a decision to use his friend's motorcycle. The said friend would accompany him, occupying the pillion's saddle while creating content. As the duo was finalizing their travel plans, another biker signed up for the trip.
Prior to flagging off the journey to East Africa through Central and Southern Africa, Daitey twisted his throttle across ten West African countries.
From Ghana, the three adventure riders crossed into Togo and Benin, en route to Nigeria. It was in Nigeria when Daitey started doubting his friends' preparedness. The realization that the owner of the bike he was riding was bound to give up and return home led to an even bolder decision. Faced with the uncertainties of losing his means of travel, he bought his own motorcycle before leaving Nigeria. This purchase came at a steep cost, slashing 80% of his total travel budget in one blow.
Fortunately, Daitey is not alone on this journey. He may be traveling solo, with only 20% of the budget, but fellow Africans who share his passion are extending a helping hand to ensure a successful implementation of his grand exploration project. Encounters in each destination further expand his network. In many countries, new friends welcome him with open arms and warm hearts, often hosting him free of charge. Case in point, he is scheduled to enjoy a much-needed rest at Vox Wagen Campsite, courtesy of its owner. "The brotherly love and kindness I am experiencing along the way has humbled me." He says.
Despite his encouraging testimony, his insanely long ride is obviously not a walk in the park. Travel within Africa is far from seamless. He longs for the day Africans will be traveling across the continent visa-free. But his vision goes even further. He dares to dream of a future devoid of the arbitrary borders drawn by our colonizers during the Berlin Conference in the 19th Century.
Fortunately, Daitey is not alone on this journey. He may be traveling solo, with only 20% of the budget, but fellow Africans who share his passion are extending a helping hand to ensure a successful implementation of his grand exploration project.
I won't mention the culprits, but exorbitant visa fees, corrupt immigration officials, unethical police officers, and inefficient service delivery, among other bottlenecks, have unnecessarily made his life harder in some destinations. In one instance, he was assaulted by a police officer and temporarily detained for resisting extortion. Elsewhere, he got stuck for three weeks waiting for his visa, which was never issued, forcing him to bypass one of the destinations he was looking forward to visiting. Another country was removed from his itinerary because its visa would have cost him USD 300. Yes, Daitey has had his fair share of obstacles, but his optimism remains unshaken -- perhaps stronger than ever before.
As mentioned above, Daitey visited ten West African countries prior to embarking on the ongoing trip. Unfortunately, the friends he teamed up with for the mother of all tours made a U-turn before even making it to Cameroon. A combination of security concerns, high travel costs, harsh weather, and challenging terrain along the Central African stretch is to blame for their inability to finish what they started.
Despite these formidable challenges, Daitey pressed on. After bidding goodbye to his friends, he rode through Cameroon and the Republic of Congo (Congo Brazzaville). While in the latter, he was involved in a charitable cause and gave back to his host community. Then he found his way around the Congo River via a ferry in an Angolan enclave of Cabinda. After a short Atlantic cruise, he got back on the road. His next destinations were Angola, Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho, Eswatini, Zimbabwe, Zambia, and Malawi. Having visited Tanzania and Burundi already, Rwanda is his third destination in East Africa.
While in the Republic of Congo, Daitey was involved in a charitable cause and gave back to his host community.
Traveling across Africa on a motorcycle is an unparalleled adventure. As the saying goes, "Traveling in a car is like watching a movie, riding a motorcycle is like staring in it." Daitey is immersed in the continent's magical creations. But the beauty of Africa is not only found in its geographical features but also in its people. Riding through villages and remote settlements, bikers are fueled by waves, smiles, and the unconditional generosity of strangers. Whether sharing a meal with locals, learning something about their culture, or receiving direction from a friendly passerby, the spirit of Ubuntu is undeniable.
He left Ghana in March, last year. If all goes according to plan, he will be back home in two months. His final push will take him through Uganda, Kenya, South Sudan, Central Africa Republic, and Cameroon before making his way back to West Africa.
Daitey's grand tour of Africa goes beyond tourism. It is a transformative journey that is shaping his outlook in a profound way. With every mile he covers, every culture he embraces, and every hand he shakes, he gains new perspectives and a deeper appreciation for what truly defines Africa.
Daitey's grand tour of Africa goes beyond tourism. It is a transformative journey that is shaping his outlook in a profound way.
Upon the completion of this journey, he plans to write a book while preparing for his upcoming tour of North Africa. Known as Flying Flags on social media, this Pan-African explorer carries a symbolic tradition wherever he goes: he proudly flies a flag of his host country in each destination. With every border he crosses and every flag he raises, Daitey is writing a powerful story that will undoubtedly inspire the new generation of Pan-Africanists.